Information

Aemilia Ars

Aemilia Ars Needle Lace and how to make it, its specific stitches and working methods. All skill levels.

Members: 82
Latest Activity: Jul 20

Books Websites and Resources for Aemilia Ars

L'AEMILIA ARS DI ANTONILLA CANTELLI - this book not only has pictures of the exceptional work of her studio, it has the design diagrams on facing pages that you can copy for the toile. I do not speak or read Italian, but with a dictionary I can usually decode the one or two sentences that describe each step. Also, since the sentences are short, sometimes I can type them into Google Translate, which can help.  Her facebook page:  https://www.facebook.com/pg/AemiliaArs/photos/?ref=page_internal

Barbara Cantelli's book, "L' Aemilia Ars di Antonilla Cantelli". It is excellent for following the patterns & then there are two others, Bordi & Fiori which have very good illustrations & steps for how to do the lace. All in Italian but the pics are very clear.


from Silvia The group "I merletti di Antonilla Cantelli" has just launched this website. In the future it will be expanded and perhaps translated into English.
http://www.aemilia-ars.com/

One of our members, Patricia Girolami, recommends this:
"The following books about Aemila Ars, written in Italian with English translations, would not be a bad start.
Un Bordo, Aemilia Ars. (A Border in aemilia ars.) Edition Il Punto Antico."
A lovely geometrical border, a good point to begin in aemilia ars. This border can easily be broken up and used in smaller units. There are explanations in photographs.

Aemilia Ars, Designs and Lace. An anastatic copy of an antique book, with a second book of explanations of the old designs. Also has explanations in photgraphs and an English translation. (Two small books in a slip case).

You can found two beautiful articles about Aemilia Ars in this new blog: http://italian-needlework.blogspot.com/
Aemila Ars, Dai vecchi disegni ai nuovi merletti. An exhibition catalogue with a little more. There are also original designs and explanations of the working.
(Aemili Ars, From old designs to new lace)

All books by Il Punto Antico, Bologna, Italy.
email, edizionipuntoantico@libero.it

Refer to Pia Breviglieri who speaks english.

 

Quaderni di Aemilia Ars : Fiori. It is written in italian and wonderfully illustrated. (Recommended by Virginie Cornaglia.)

Quaderni Di Aemilia Ars: Corso Base by Bianca Rosa Bellomo, Carla D'Alessandro, Luisa Monteventi. 

Look at Patricia's series of images showing stages in working aemilia ars:
http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/photo/image1-cartone?context=latest 

 

Silvia has a tutorial on her blog for a simple reticella design worked in the aemilia ars method:

http://merlettoadago.blogspot.com/2011/07/tutorial-merletto-ad-ago-geometrico.html 

http://merlettoadago.blogspot.com/2011/07/tutorial-merletto-ad-ago-geometrico_11.html 

Her aemilia ars picot  http://merlettoadago.blogspot.com.au/2011/07/tutorial-merletto-ad-ago-geometrico_18.html ;

aemilia ars picots = bullion picots  http://www.fruncesybordados.com.mx/Bullion%20Picot.htm

Discussion Forum

Amelia Ars 14 Replies

Should Amelia Ars always be white or should we be trying colour?

Tags: Anne

Started by Anne Weston. Last reply by Elizabeth Ligeti. Mar 18, 2015.

Made by Aemelia Ars needle lace insert, peacocks urns etc 10 Replies

Hi all.Plese go to my page and look at Aemelia Ars table cloth, this is made by herMargaretContinue

Started by margaret ruhland. Last reply by Carolyn Wetzel May 1, 2012.

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Comment by Maxine on May 6, 2015 at 4:33pm

Hi Regina,

I looked on their web site and could not find it. Do you have a link for it?

Thank you.

Comment by Maxine on March 16, 2015 at 10:38pm

Thank you Regina. I will look for that in the books. I will let you know if I don't find it.

Comment by Regina Martinez on March 16, 2015 at 3:47pm
Hi Maxine,
I purchased mine at Lacis. . .the price was $64, but it was worth it for me. I only have first one, and it came with a border pattern for a handkerchief, and a rose pattern. Both patterns are taught in the DVD. They also go over what materials you will need (like threads, needle, pattern transfer). It also has a section that goes over the all the stitches used, and how to change your thread. If you go the lacis website, it is under the heading books, then needlework techniques, then needle and battenburg. It is the first listing. Please let me know if you don't find it, and I will post a direct link to it. :)
Comment by Maxine on March 16, 2015 at 1:18pm

Hi Regina. I am interested in the DVD you are talking about and where you can purchase it. I an a beginner too and would like to know how to get started.

Thank you,

Maxine

Comment by Regina Martinez on March 16, 2015 at 12:11pm
Carolyn - I have the first Aemilia Ars DVD. I had ordered the Corso Base book, but could not figure out how to even get started so I bought the DVD, and it did help a lot. I am a visual learner, so seeing the process of how it is made was priceless information for me. I do wish they would go into a little bit more detail as far as tackling beginner mistakes and finishing techniques, but if I had to choose again whether to purchase it or not, I most certainly would! I could not have gotten started without it. And I learned enough to be able to follow the patterns in the book that I have. :)
Comment by Margaret Stephens on January 24, 2015 at 4:27am

Loretta,

The thread we used for the geometrical Aemilia Ars was DMC Perle No. 12

The thread used for the floral Aemilia Ars was DMC Cordonnet Special No. 50.

The thread for the support stitches both times was No. 50 sewing cotton.

We think that lace should be fine but Italians always make lace to be used and it is usually for household linen which has to be sturdy and so hence the thicker threads. I have used a lot of DMC Coton A Broder No.30 and 35 which works well.

Comment by Lorelei Halley on January 24, 2015 at 12:25am

Margaret, Christina, Loretta, Maria -- a fascinating discussion.

Comment by Christina Cato on January 23, 2015 at 3:00pm
I believe we are all saying the thing Margaret. :)

The evolution of lace in the 16th and 17th centuries are very clear. However tying them to modern terminology and technique is the tricky part.

Lorelei I agree with both of your points. Especially providing terms and definitions that everyone will recognize. As I only teach for recreating 16th century I stress that the punto tagliato and punto in aria are very different. I don't even think they were done by the same lacemakers. You would have a specialist in one and a specialist in the other. I think the more we use the terms the more it will help others. From all of the history books I've read reticello became a blanket term for both methods, although they remained two distinct methods under a single name.

In the revival the word reticella was either created or misunderstood (that's a guess) by the English arts and crafts movement, which revived the method before the AA society. Since that movement is the meshing of the two most can't discern one technique from another.
Comment by Loretta Holzberger on January 23, 2015 at 2:46pm

Thank you, Margaret.  From your added information, I would guess that it was the Aemilia Ars Society that developed the faster tacking technique to speed up the lace making process.  That would but the date there close to 1900. 

What size threads did you use in the classes you took in Italy? 

Comment by Margaret Stephens on January 23, 2015 at 1:54pm

I have been to Italy twice to learn Aemilia Ars. First I learnt the geometrical style which is not to be confused with Reticella ( or Reticello as it is described in Italy).

I learnt from Virginia Bonfiglioli Chiavegato who was an elderly lady and the last remaining link with the Aemilia Ars Society. She was very particular that it be called Punto in Aria of Bologna. In fact that is the sub title of her book.

I returned again to do the Floral style.

The two styles are different. The geometrical is a direct descendant from the old Punto Tagliati when holes were cut out of fabric and filled with needlelace stitches. Times changed and people wanted lace to wear and so they started cutting and pulling more threads out to make larger spaces. The work had to be supported  as the work became lacier and hence support stitches were used.The fabric was then omitted and threads were laid down and supported with stitches to form the framework.

The Aemila Ars Society was started in 1898 and designers such as Rubbiani redesigned the very old Italian Punto in Aria dating back to the 17th C. He simplified the old lace so that women could do more modern work which could be sold. Countess Cavazza was the instrument in setting up 1000's of women to do this and she obtained commissions from all over the world to keep them going until about 1930. Look at some of the old Pattern books.......Pagan 1550 shows geometrical designs. Vinciolo 1587 shows the floral and geometrical and you may get an idea of how things evolve. I understand what Lorelei is saying  and you can't always rely on what comes out of Mr. Google. Go back to the old books. They can be downloaded for free from Arizona Weaving Digital Archives. Just look in the lace section.

 
 
 

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