Information

Filet Lacis

Filet lacis, filet lace, filet guipure,  filet noué: these are made on a knotted handmade net with embroidery stitches added, especially darning and cloth stitch (toile).

Members: 33
Latest Activity: Nov 3, 2016

Sources of information

ONLINE RESOURCES

The DMC Encyclopedia has a chapter on filet, and a separate booklet, available from
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/index.html Look for Dillmont

Links to the DMC booklets on filet lacis:

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/dmc_net_1.pdf 

http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/dmc_net_2.pdf  (This one is just examples.)
Also look there for Hardouin FILET BRODE and Orsoni

DMC online chapter on how to make the net, and some net embroidery stitches and motifs. http://encyclopediaofneedlework.com/chapter_12.html

Project Gutenberg has Beeton's Encyclopedia online, which has quite a lot of filet, which she calls "guipure d'art". How to do the net starts with p 301,
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/15147/15147-h/15147-h.htm#page_301
and guipure d'art (the embroidery part) starts on p 503
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/15147/15147-h/15147-h.htm#page_503

In this one the netting starts on page 77 http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/ButterickTattingNetting.pdf 

Exhaustive description of how to make the various nets: diamonds, rounds, square etc. Rita Bartholomew
http://knotsindeed.com/index.html 

http://knotsindeed.blogspot.com/ 

http://www.nettingnook.com/

A source for books, materials and tools:
http://www.filetlace.net/products
Another supplier:
http://www.finniwig.com/netinst.htm

Other sources:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AggNztFWBuU very good, very SLOW mesh making
http://mktag.org/projects/cecillaMezza/content.html
http://www.nordicneedle.net/guides/stitching-techniques/filet-lace/
http://www.filetintondo.net/galleria/
http://lynxlace.com/filetlacistenerife.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&NR=1&v=GVw6vmuCCZ4   start

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2VxvJ4dIE0&feature=fvwrel   begin next row

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW6VlflNbTU&feature=fvwrel   increasing at end of row

RECOMMENDED BOOKS AND BOOK REVIEWS
Margaret Morgan published a very good book last year called "Filet Lace: Stitches & Patterns" Milner Craft Series.   2006 by Sally Milner Publishing Pty. Ltd., Bowral, NSW, 2576,  Australia
An excellent book with clear instructions and diagrams, and it takes you though in easy stages from elementary to more advanced. shows the various types of filet lace, too - 


Monique Valee DENTELLE SUR FILET NOUE


Marie-Jo Quinault "Filet Lace - Introduction to the Linen Stitch" Clear diagrams on how to map out your pathway for working this lace, and lots of patterns too.


Barbara MORTON DOWN EAST NETTING"

Contains a list of netting booklets:  http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg44704.html

NAMES I HAVE SEEN USED FOR THIS TYPE OF LACE:
filet lace, filet lacis, filet guipure, filet noue, Filet Arbeiten, Gipuer, filet brode, Filet Richelieu, filet d'art, guipure d'art, dentelle de Cluny. All of these names apply to laces made on knotted net. But Buratto, or Burato, is the name used for embroidery on square net which is not knotted ( a woven fabric with visible spaces between the threads).

Discussion Forum

Filet Lace 8 Replies

Hi! A friend found a book at the library called "Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint" by Federico Vinciolo and Apparently the patterns are reprints from books originally printed…Continue

Started by Elizabeth Barber. Last reply by Elizabeth Barber Apr 15, 2012.

BOOKS ON FILET and embroidering it 1 Reply

If you come across any books on filet lacis, please post a review here. Or if you have any of the books listed above, comments on their contents and usefulness would be helpful. Please post as a…Continue

Tags: filet, books, filet lacis books

Started by Lorelei Halley. Last reply by Elizabeth Ligeti. Oct 27, 2010.

Comment Wall

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Comment by Lorelei Halley on December 1, 2014 at 2:37pm

Can either of you check the publication date and place on the Margaret Morgan book? I only have author and title.

Jenny, I wonder about your hands, if it is whatever not-very-clean water where the net was made, a stiffening agent, or if it is the fiber of the net itself that is causing the reaction. I wonder if washing the net thoroughly before working on it would stop the reaction. (Wearing gloves while washing it.)

Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti. on November 30, 2014 at 9:28pm

If you find my page and see my photos, I have 3 pieces of filet lace there - or go to my Albums, and see in the knkotted lace and Filet lace one.  I have the Hardanger look-alike from Margaret Morgan's book, and a close up of a corner,  a piece I worked from an old 1929 French album of filet Lace patterns, and the 3rd piece is of "The Lacemaker " by Marg. Morgan from her book with Jill Oxton Publications - Cross Stitch Australia, Special edition #3 - more of a magazine type book - but the first one I got, and which I learned from.  I think some are still available from the Publisher . there is also another Morgan book - Silhouettes and more in Miniature. She does miniature needlework, and some of these are done in black on cream silk as cross stitch, but can also be done in Filet Lace.

I have never actually met Margaret, but have corresponded with her, and found her very helpful. 

A tip - place a dark coloured cloth over your knees, or on the table when working on white or light colour, and it will give a contrast background.  I was given that tip when I started Knotted Lace, - and it works for filet lace too!! It is too hard to see if you have the white net & threads in your hand, and light coloured clothing on. I use a dark cover cloth from my bobbin lace, and keep it with whatever filet, and knotted laces I am working on. It helps!!

I did "The Lacemaker" twice - as the first one I gave to my daughter (also a Lacemaker!) and them missed her and had just an empty frame, so made her again!!  I used 14 count net for those ones, but I usually use 9 count net.

Comment by Jenny on November 30, 2014 at 7:43pm

Liz, my plan was to work through Margaret's book, from front to back,but when my hands started breaking out I gave up. I have always wanted to work it on linen but have always other more important projects to do, and the mesh making can be boring and time consuming.

This current small piece is on a sampler of pulled and drawn work, and now I want to do more! At one of my stitching groups we have been given a challenge for next year which is "to set our own challenge". I have set mine as filet, playing with different sized meshes, learning the different stitches, seeing how they react with different threads. I would like to move into colour, so parts of a design are one colour, and other parts are another colour. I also want to have a go at making my own mesh with just thread, so I can play with circular disigns. That's something I cannot do with linen. All too much I think for just 12 months.

Do we get to see pics of your piece when it is finished?

I agree, the heavy crosses should be the heavy thread, & fine crosses in fine thread, that is just logical!

Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti. on November 30, 2014 at 6:37pm

Oh Good - I am not going totally mad, then, when the message did not appear!!!!!!!

Marg. Morgan's book is really good, and shows different techniques. I like the outlining with a thicker thread, and it makes blocks look like flowers. 

I have done a small mat from an Italian book/magaine which turned out well, and now I am doing the medium size of the same pattern.  I will Not be doing the biest siZe though.  But it is a neat, continental deisgn. I gave the small one to my daughter, - so have to make  it again - but larger, for me. It has fillings in a fine thread - interesting!

Funny though - the main stitching with thicker thread is shown in a fine X on the pattern sheet, and the finer thread areas are marked in a heavy X. -  seems the wrong way around to me!!!  (Or is it me? - I am English born & bred, and living in Australia, so maybe living upside down.....!!!!!!!!!!! :) )

Comment by Jenny on November 30, 2014 at 3:26pm

Hi Liz,

Sorry, I accidentally deleted the missing message, oooops! Just talking about making the mesh myself from linen if I remember correctly.

Making the mesh from the linen is easy enough, but very time consuming, but then again what isn't in the lace world!

I have done a few sample pieces from Margaret Morgan's book on the purchased net. I find that OK if working white on white, but don't like the white net showing through with colour stitching. The net also makes my hands break out in dermatitis. The samples I did were following Margaret's instruction. This attempt is my first at doing linen stitch in my own made mesh, and my first attempt at working out the pathway of a design on my own. The design is not mine, it came from one of the books on the Antique pattern Library, I just had to work out the pathway.

The fun part about working on linen is experimenting with the hole size & choice of thread. My mesh is cut 2, leave 2, and my first attempt at the linen stitch on this piece I used perle 12, and it didn't fill the hole. I had to use perle 8.

I was inspired a few years back by a lady in one of my stitching groups ( sadly now passed) who made the most stunning filet table mat. It was oval shaped, made from pink linen, with a rose design at each end worked in filet. She used different weights of thread, in slightly different shades, with combinations of stitches to give the roses life. The final piece was stunning and won her an award.

Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti. on November 29, 2014 at 7:15pm

I am missing Jenny's other message - it does not come up here for some reason. I see she made the net from some linen fabric. Well done - I have never tried that.  I am lazy and buy the 9 holes per inch net!!

I find I miss a message every now and again - I get the link, but not the message - it just goes to the heading , not the message, and then I can';t find the message anywhere.  Odd!  Not to worry though - it only happens occasionally.  I don't think I miss much (that would be awful for a stickybeak like me!!!!!! :) )

Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti. on November 29, 2014 at 7:11pm

That is half the fun of  Filet Lace - working out the pathway first!!  still, if you make a mistake and can';t get back to a few stitches that are only half done - you can cheat and work them later with a separate thread - but be careful to tie off both ends of the extra thread very carefully, so it does not work loose!!

I find it annoying when I make a counting mistake, though, and have to go back and redo a bit!!  But I really enjoy filet lace. Using a coloured thread is interesting, but you need a slightly deeper colour, as the white net threads make your chosen colour a bit paler.

Is this your first try, Jenny?  It is very nicely worked, so well done.

Comment by Jenny on November 28, 2014 at 9:19pm

Absolutely Lorelei. I did the outer weaving order on a PC program, then when I came to do the inner one the program would not work any more, so had to do it old school with pen & paper on graph. The first on one PC took me 3 hrs of planning, the inner one took me numerous goes. It also helps to follow the plans you make, and make them very clear to follow!

Comment by Lorelei Halley on November 28, 2014 at 9:04pm

It looks good.  I haven't tried this, but have acquired an understanding that linen stitch in filet is not as easy as it looks. Lots of strategic planning required.

Comment by Jenny on November 28, 2014 at 9:01pm

Might add that it took me three goes to to the outer row and three attempts to do the inner section.

 

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