Needlelace Identification History


Needlelace Identification History

What kind of needle lace is this?  For discussions of needle lace history, and how to identify particular regional/period styles of needlelace.  Distinguish different types of needle lace, different kinds of needle lace.

Members: 31
Latest Activity: Jun 22, 2019

Best Books and Websites to Learn Needle Lace identification

Santina Levey LACE

Pat Earnshaw NEEDLELACE 1991

Fulvia Lewis LACE 1980

Clare Browne's 'Lace' (V&A, 2004)  available from the museum directly

Discussion of different kinds of lace, of which needlelace is only one: 

Laces compared:

A university based website specializing in the interface of archives, textiles, social history ; 

Many examples: ;

Descriptions of the different styles, needle and bobbin -

My  pinboards of antique needle lace:   

Please add comment below if you have another suggestion.

Discussion Forum

A group of needle laces to identify 1 Reply

A new member of laceioli has recently sent in some photos of needle laces, and she wants some help in identifying them. So I am asking needlelacetalk members to take a look and add comments either…Continue

Tags: antique needle lace

Started by Lorelei Halley. Last reply by Teri Dow Apr 24, 2016.

Identification- Point Plat de Venise perhaps? 2 Replies

I have looked at several reference books and pictures online.  Would this mat be Point Plat de…Continue

Tags: Point Plat de Venise, needlelace, needlelace mat, Identification

Started by Lagartija. Last reply by Lagartija Feb 9, 2016.

First of 2 antique needle lace pieces in search of ID 18 Replies

Here's another piece also found here in France. My wild guess would be an early example of Gros Point or something similar???? It measures roughly 18" x 5"All suggestions will be much…Continue

Started by deborah greenfield. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Feb 10, 2014.

Second of 2 pieces of antique Italian needle lace in search of ID please 3 Replies

Hello experts, Here's a piece found in France. Here are my guesses (but I really don't know very much about lace as yet:) : I believe this piece is Italian needle lace but I'm not sure what kind…Continue

Tags: hunting, scene, lace, needle, italian

Started by deborah greenfield. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Feb 3, 2014.

Comment Wall


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Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti. on November 30, 2013 at 7:17pm

I can't add much to what Lorelei has said.  It looks like filet lace, to me, too.

Burato (or Buratto - one or 2 T's are optional, I think!!) is a machine made net but the hand work is just the same as for filet lace.  the knots in the corner of the mesh denote whether it is filet lace or not!

This lace has knots in the mesh corners so is Filet lace.

My understanding of the history is the same - fishermen's wives decorated their nets, ...!

Good luck with your studies. It sounds an interesting course.  Let us know how you are going.

Comment by Lorelei Halley on November 30, 2013 at 3:06pm

I should also say that the stitching which attaches the lace to the cloth looks like machine zigzag stitching.

Comment by Lorelei Halley on November 30, 2013 at 3:02pm

Click on the photos below to get the full size image, where there is a lot of detail.

My understanding of the history is that the square knotted mesh goes back to the ancient Egyptians.  It uses the same knot as an old time fisherman's net. Decorated knotted square net goes back to the 12th century.  It is popular all over the world at present. I know that Italy produced a lot of very fine filet, but I'm not knowledgeable about the dates and trends.  I photographed several private collections back in the 1980s, which appeared to contain a lot of laces and embroideries made about 1900.  Filet, Battenberg and tatting were the most common kinds.

I think this is hand knotted net, because the embroidery thread and net thread appears to be the same, a not very tightly twisted thread.

The net is decorated with several stitches, one is festoon stitch (buttonhole st) similar to this (a Hardanger piece where I used that stitch)   There are also squares of linen stitch (cloth stitch), woven webs, and that thing that looks like a star.  I don't know its proper name, so I will call it star stitch.  I have seen it on several filet pieces made around 1900.  

Here is a link to the filet pieces on my website, for comparison purposes.

The openwork rectangle in the cloth itself is called drawn work, drawn thread work.  Among embroiderers the term "pulled thread" refers to something different -- an embroidery worked with such strong tension that holes appear in the cloth. But the holes are achieved without removing any of the fabric threads. Drawn work removes threads, pulled work does not. For comparison purposes:

Does anybody know more detailed history of this form of lace?

Comment by Lorelei Halley on November 30, 2013 at 2:43pm

One of our newest members, Desideria Desjardins, has asked for help identifying this lace.  Her questions are

"I am a student in Ottawa, Canada, in Museum Studies. In conservation
class I am treating a small textile and I am trying to identify the
type of lace on it, how it was worked, and what the history of the
style is. I have attached a photograph. I know that the inside is
pulled-thread work, and that on the edge lace the decorations are
wheels and linen-stitch squares, and I think it is hand-knotted filet,
but I am not sure.  Désirée Desjardins  "

Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti. on November 16, 2013 at 8:19pm

Wow!  Look at all those little couronnes!!!!!!

It looks "modern' in the design. I am no good at identification, but it certainly has a more recent look to the design.  A lovely piece, whatever!

Comment by Lorelei Halley on November 16, 2013 at 2:04pm
Comment by Lorelei Halley on September 6, 2013 at 2:23pm

The top one is a LePuy guipure bobbin lace.  On the lower one there isn't enough detail.  But I think it probably is, too.  My understanding is that all the lace of LePuy is bobbin lace, not needle lace.  for more LePuy photos, look here:     Click on the red words under the icon.

Comment by Lorelei Halley on March 22, 2013 at 3:19pm

An article about the lace which copies the design of the Bayeaux tapestry, with good closeup photos of some parts: 

There is also discussion of some needle lace table runners (not the French chateaux) here: 

Comment by Lorelei Halley on March 20, 2013 at 3:01pm

J. Ames has just posted a fantastic article, with many many pictures, of a set of needle lace placemats and a runner, depicting French chaeaux, on laceioli.  You must go and look.

The detail is very good, and Devon has contributed some thoughts about the lace making industry around 1900.

Comment by Lorelei Halley on February 1, 2013 at 4:14pm


An interesting collection.  Click on the link    mehr      to see photos of the entire collection.  Near the end are closer up photos.  Mostly cross stitch, but some drawn thread work, some reticello, 2 pieces of bobbin lace, some filet.  Thanks Kaye


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