Make, learn and talk about needle lace.
Here is the whole piece of Reticella that the detail on the Reticella group was taken from.
Albums: Reticella-reticello DrawnWork&Cutwork-1
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Unfortunately I do not own a copy of the Levey book. It was way out of my buying capacity. I borrowed it from the State Library once, and I had another look at it when Im was staying with my daughter in Denver (she was Guild librarian with all the books at her house. What a hard way to spend a holiday!!! :) )
I was researching Puncetto lace at the time - after a lead from Devon as to what a sample piece was that Helen had for the exhibition. But that is another story!!
The dates Devon has given 1544, and 1557, seem to hold on to the theory that this lace came first, and the more open reticella developed From this one.
I went and looked at Levey, too. Here is what I found. Plates from her book, by plate #, with strong diagonal direction to the design.
cutwork inserted into woven cloth: # 14 and #17
The entire object is needlelace (reticella) with strong diagonal design: #s 21, 34, 48, 53
pettern books with diagonal designs: # 16 and #20 (as Devon said)
I'm not going to venture any opinion about dates or the time sequence in which these designs appear. I just don't know enough about needle lace, I haven't seen enough actual examples.
There is nothing like this in Vinciolo's book, which came out around 1587 I think.
I have always had a feeling (though No knowledge - just a gut feeling) that this is the earlier form, and then the larger squares and more fancy designs followed.
It is interesting to note that the tiny pyramids or triangls in the corners are free from the Horizontal & vertical lines at their sides, due, I suppose to the straight lines being fabric ,overcast or needlewoven over.
What tiny picots!!
Another problem with trying to date a pattern is that once people started making something like cutwork, for instance, they continued making it. So new techniques may be added but the old ones continue to be practiced. After all, that is what we are doing.
I think I will keep my eye out for portraits that have similar lace on them.
This piece is unlike many of the ones we see patterns for in that it is composed of un underlying framework of rather small squares (of the underlying linen). There are some like this in Levey identified as second half of the 16th century. I am wondering if there is some kind of chronological progression to the designs. For instance, ones like this may have been more popular earlier than the ones with larger squares. These might be closer to the cutworks that preceded them and from which they developed. I don't know this, but I am going to be alert to anything that might support or disprove the theory.
That is interesting. I haven't tried a piece like that, though I have a couple of patterns.
Hmm! I must have a go!!! :)
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